4.91/5 based on 67 reviews

11-Day Peaks of the Balkans

Hiking beyond borders in Albania, Kosovo & Montenegro

This 11-day journey on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail starts in Shkodra, the historic capital of Albania’s northern highlands, and travels anti-clockwise through Kosovo, to Montenegro and return. On a scenic boat ride over the fjord-like Koman Lake, you enter the Albanian Alps from the remarkable Valbona Valley. From the summer settlement Cerem, you walk the high route below the mighty Mt. Kollata up to the remote summer pasture Doberdol, for a memorable overnight stay in shepherd’s huts. On Mt. Tromedja, the three-border-peak, the concept of hiking beyond borders becomes tangible, and the panoramic views reward the effort. Long caravan routes on softer terrain take you into Kosovo, through alpine pastures and the now peaceful Rugova highlands. Crossing over into Montenegro’s Prokletije National Park, new vistas unfold as you pass the highest point of the route, then walk the ridge trail above the awe-inspiring Grbaja Valley, facing the Dolomite-like Karanfili Range. An ancient oute leads you through the heart of the Accursed Mountains back to Albania, where in the idyllic Theth you learn about the former highland laws of the Kanun. After a swim by the glacier stone-pools of Nderlysaj, you conclude your journey in the lively capital Tirana.

We arrange your transfers, luggage transfers and overnight stays, as well as provide all the needed support and materials for a hassle-free, self-guided trip for you to enjoy at your own pace.

Overview

  • Self-Guided
  • 11 days (10 nights) including one arrival and departure day
  • June to September (best period)
  • 2 - 8 people
  • Tirana airport or city at pre-agreed timing
  • 9 hikes up to 7:48h walking time (Ø 5:32h), 1300m altitude difference (Ø 805m) and a total of +6400m/-6550m/117km.
  • Hotels with private, guesthouse with shared rooms and huts
11
days
Self-Guided

itinerary

  • 1

    Welcome to Albania!

    Welcome to the Balkans! We pick you up from Tirana or Podgorica (airport/city) for the two-hour transfer to Shkodra. Here you receive your materials (road book, maps, phone, GPS), a walk-through of the tour and have all remaining questions answered. Afterwards, the city calls for a stroll through the pedestrian area lined with bourgeoisie townhouses, a reminder of the city's prestigious past. Immerse yourself in the city’s Italian flair, join the buzz of the bazaar to buy dried fruits and other snacks, or dive into the past captured on film at the Marubi photo library. It's only a short taxi ride to visit the Rozafa Castle and enjoy the fabulous views, a foretaste for the upcoming days of travel through the Albanian Alps. With more time at hand, you can rent a bicycle (€5/day) and visit the lake-side villages of Shiroke and Zogaj for a fish meal and a splash in the Balkan's largest lake. The more relaxed will enjoy an espresso with the locals or visit the artisan shops before the daylight fades. Choose one of the many restaurants for dinner and get a drink at a bar, all while having tomorrow's early start in mind. You can store luggage at the hotel and collect it before travelling to Tirana.

    Arrival transfer
    • Transfer from Tirana airport of city center to Shkodra (2 h).
    • Optional transfers from Podgorica (2 h) available on request.
    • 30 min meet and greet at hotel upon arrival from Tirana or by 15:00 (Podgorica, individual arrivals).
    • Meals
      -/-/-
    • Accomodation
      hotel/private
    • Transfers
      2 h
    • Location
      Shkoder
  • 2

    Journey into the Accursed Mountains

    • 2:21h
    • 7.5km
    • 250m
    • 50m

    An early start is followed by a scenic drive through the Drin Gorges to the Komani Lake (58km/2h). The picturesque reservoir loops similar to a Norwegian fjord through sheer rock walls and is the most attractive route into the Albanian Alps. You're in for a surprise by the peculiar ferry, which stops several times to pick up talkative locals from remote villages before arriving at Fierze (46 km/3h). By car you continue further into the highlands of the Valbona National Park, stopping for a light lunch in the small-city Bajram Curri. In the early afternoon, you reach the Valbona Valley and it’s tower-houses made of stone. The warm-up walk follows a crystal clear stream through ancient beech forests, speckled with the sweetest wild strawberries. Along the way, the brave will stop for a swimming break at the ice-cold river or a secluded pond. The jagged peaks towering high above you give itchy feet for tomorrow's trek into the highlands. Tonight, you enjoy a delicious, hearty dinner and a well-earned rest after this impression-packed introduction to the Accursed Mountains.

    • Meals
      B/LP/D
    • Accomodation
      hotel/private
    • Transfers
      3 h + 3 h boat
    • Location
      Valbone
  • 3

    Facing the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps

    • 6:04h, 7:39h
    • 15.5, 14.0km
    • 775, 1200m
    • 775, 950m

    Refreshed, fed and provided with a lunch pack, you tackle the first and one of the longest ascents of the trek vigorously. Winding up your way to the mountain side, you are rewarded with views of the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps. Past the pastures, you reach a treeless alpine valley, where surrounded by rock, the solitary mountains are all yours. The Persllopi Pass (2.039 m) marks today’s highest point and the border with Montenegro is at the country's highest peak, Mt. Kollata (2.534 m). Past a unique, so-called wind cave and through a karst labyrinth that requires sure-footedness, you return to Albania, face some of the most spectacular panoramas and meet shepherds on the way to the rather isolated village Cerem. Without a mobile phone signal or electricity, it remains the last outpost before the true wilderness starts. The hot, home-cooked meals, the warm shower and the hospitality of the hosts makes up for the small lack of comfort. If the weather doesn't permit crossing the pass, you can walk a shorter route through the Mt. Kollata Canyon to reach the simple guesthouse (no electricity).

    • Meals
      B/LP/D
    • Accomodation
      guesthouse/private
    • Transfers
      None or 5 min
    • Location
      Cerem
    Alternate routes:
    • Valbone – Persllopi Pass – Cerem
    • 7:39h
    • 14km
    • 1200m
    • 950m
    • Cerem – Bor Pass – Siapica – Cerem
    • 6:04h
    • 15.5km
    • 775m
    • 775m
  • 4

    High route into the remote borderlands

    • 6:34h
    • 16.0km
    • 1100m
    • 450m

    The hike towards the high-lying border triangle takes you across flower carpets and temporarily into former Yugoslavia territory. Along the way, you can enjoy forest fruits, admire plant life and the breathtaking views of Mt. Kolata (2.534 m). Reaching the rim of the deep cut river canyon and following the high route through a conifer forest, you notice just how much the relief changes between the Western and Eastern Alps. Slopes are speckled with alpine pastures, you can rest in one of them and meet the herdsmen over coffee and raki. In the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol (1.750 m), animals roam the grazing grounds freely and time appears frozen. Locals still live in harmony with nature, as humankind did many years ago. This archaic place helps reset the inner compass and will surely ground your soul. In the simple shepherd's huts, you relinquish comfort for one night, in return for warm hospitality. The family prepares the meals, and you learn more about the seasonal lifestyle of the shepherds at the bonfire.

    • Meals
      B/LP/D
    • Accomodation
      hut/private
    • Transfers
      -
    • Location
      Doberdol
  • 5

    The three-border-peak of Mt. Tromedja

    • 7:12h
    • 18.0km
    • 825m
    • 1100m

    Wishing farewell to the hosts, you climb out of the valley towards Mt. Tromedja/Trekufiri (2.366 m), as the huts and herds of Doberdol below become smaller by each step. On the top, the borders of three countries merge in sweeping vistas of the solitary borderlands. To the left lies the evergreen Babino Polje of Montenegro, and to the right, Kosovo’s highest peak Mt. Gjeravica (2.656 m) abruptly dives from the heights of the Dinaric Alps into the Dukagjin Plain. The long caravan path at the edge of the “Bjeshket e Namuna” National Park crisscrosses the border ridge below the 2,500 m high peaks of Mt. Marijash and Mt. Rops, affording panoramic views into both Kosovo and Montenegro. You cross the Roshkodoli Pass and start your descent to Milishevc, a remote summer village located in the midst of a peaceful pine forest. The simple mountain huts made of wood, typical for the country’s alpine villages, provide refreshments, hot meals, comfort, and a well-deserved rest after a long day.

    • Meals
      B/LP/D
    • Accomodation
      guesthouse/private
    • Transfers
      -
    • Location
      Milishevc
  • 6

    Alpine villages of the Rrugova region

    • 4:12h, 8:24h
    • 10.0, 13.0km
    • 525, 1250m
    • 600, 1300m

    A morning transfer takes you on a bumpy, 1.5 hour ride to the northern part of the “Bjeshket e Namuna” National Park. Today’s trailhead lies in Reka e Allages, another alpine village at the edge of the country. Across meadows and along the blueberry trail, you quickly ascend in a dense pine forest to the base of Mt. Hajla (2.403 m). Multiple very steep and partly trail-less routes lead to the peak that forms the border with Montenegro. From the top of the 300 m high cliff, views reach far into the neighboring country and city Rozaje. The ascent is optional, and you may opt out to keep the day short (<5h). Daydream, read your book, or admire the surrounding flora instead. Chances to spot rare plants like Edelweiss or the endemic Albanian Lily are nowhere as high as here! From the base, the walk continues on high altitude along a now unused road, to the highest of the thirteen Rugova villages, Pepaj. Walking through a rocky gully, circled by tall pines, you get a few chances to catch a glimpse over the scenic hamlet of Drelaj. The village is more populated and seems closer to civilization than your previous overnight stays. At the accommodation, you will be delighted by another yummy dinner, as the family prepares the campfire in the garden.

    • Meals
      B/LP/D
    • Accomodation
      guesthouse/private
    • Transfers
      1.5 h
    • Location
      Drelaj
    Alternate routes:
    • Reka Allages – Mt. Hajla – Drelaj
    • 8:23h
    • 13km
    • 1250m
    • 1300m
    • Reka Allages – Drelaj
    • 4:12h
    • 10km
    • 525m
    • 600m
  • 7

    Across the Jelenka Pass into Montenegro

    • 7:49h
    • 15.0km
    • 1150m
    • 1050m

    After a 30-min transfer to the trailhead, the route climbs through an idyllic pine forest to the big emerald lake of Liqenat (1.850 m). At its banks prospers a wide range of alpine flora and above awaits the highest point of the official Peaks of the Balkans route, the Jelenka Pass (2.272 m). Passing a second lake, you tackle the long ascent towards the pass. Caravans have used this route since ancient times to move silver and other goods to and from the coast - nowadays it’s almost invisible. The top invites for a rest stop, with stunning views of the mountains above Plav, Theth and Valbona. Behind it, shepherds from Roshkodol collect berries, and you’re flanked by peaks above 2.500 m. The walk to Ravno Brdo Pass (2.178 m) is almost leveled, offers dreamy therapeutic walking and good views. The last pass proves to be a magnificent viewpoint towards the rugged peaks ahead and into the lush green valley of Babino Polje below. Descending through the grassy grounds, you pass a hut or two before reaching the scattered settlement of Babino Polje. Here, you stay at the rim of the wilderness, at simple but very welcoming mountain huts, where the friendly hosts introduce you to the highlights of traditional Montenegrin home-cooking.

    • Meals
      B/LP/D
    • Accomodation
      hut/private
    • Transfers
      45 min
    • Location
      Babino Polje
  • 8

    Grbaja Valley - The culmination of Prokletije NP

    • 6:34h
    • 12.0km
    • 950m
    • 950m

    The Grbaja Valley is one of the most awe-inspiring in the Balkans. On a morning transfer, you shuttle into the narrow valley wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (2.461 m). Arguably one of the most rugged and dramatic peaks in the Prokletije, it’s a dream of many climbers. Ascending through a shaded fairy-tale beech forest, you reach an alpine meadow encompassed by multiple peaks. The connected ridge trail lets you enjoy a series of panoramic viewpoints, culminating in the highest two peaks of Popadija and Taljanka (2.056 m). From here, the hostile walls seem almost within reach, and views gaze across the border into the Kelmend region of Albania. From the top of the spine, a steep descent takes you back onto the shaded forest path, where the balloon hike closes. Once back down at the valley floor, you can choose one of the beer gardens to enjoy a cold drink. On a transfer, you continue to the family-run guesthouse in Vusanje. Here the nearby Grla Waterfall invites for an evening stroll, though the views from the veranda over the Accursed Mountains are equally beautiful.

    • Meals
      B/LP/D
    • Accomodation
      guesthouse/private
    • Transfers
      1.25 h + 30 min
    • Location
      Vusanje
  • 9

    Through the heart of the Accursed Mountains

    • 6:29h
    • 15.0km
    • 675m
    • 1175m

    Leaving Vusanje you start walking up the 26 km long glacier-shaped Ropojana Valley. At a pupil-shaped karst spring called the Oko Skakavice, an ice-cold river is born from melting snow high up in the mountains. Walking past the Gjeshtare Lake, a weathered border stone is the only reminder of the once tightly sealed borders of former Communist Albania. Once through the forest, the views clear and a mountain-framed corridor opens onto a large alpine meadow speckled with shepherd shacks and an abandoned military post. You have almost reached the highest point of the route, below is a small lake and across, the Peja Pass (1.711 m), named after a city in Kosovo, marks the historic background of today's trekking route. A steep caravan path leads in serpentines into Theth, the valley in the heart of the Albanian Alps. Reaching the bottom of the valley, there's a local watering hole where you can ask the owner for a lift to your guesthouse. Alternatively, you may continue along the largely traffic-free 4x4 track into the center of the village.

    • Meals
      B/LP/D
    • Accomodation
      guesthouse/private
    • Transfers
      2x 30 min
    • Location
      Theth
  • 10

    Theth – tradition in the Albanian highlands

    • 2:39h
    • 8.0km
    • 150m
    • 400m

    Only a walk through the village and its lush green fields reveals the full extent of Theth. Visit its iconic church and dive at the lock-in tower into the history of the "Kanun". The "kulla" offered protection to those affected by the Blood Feud and is the right place to learn about the former highland law code; it also marks the trailhead to Nderlysaj. Following water channels, the path ascends to the Grunas Waterfall, drops again to a cliff above the river and the 50 m deep Grunas Canyon. A well-worn bridle path leads you along the river downstream to Nderlysaj. Arriving there in the hot midday sun, the pond below and glacial mills above invite for a swim. The scenic transfer across the Thorja Pass (1.630 m) into the Valley of Boge and along the Lake of Shkodra (2 h) leaves at around 1-2 pm. Cars are changed and luggage collected for another 2.5 h transfer to Tirana. The capital city represents the modern, very different side of Albania. Conclude your day with dinner and a drink out in the chic "Blloku" district, while recalling the past week of travel and celebrating a memorable journey in the mountains.

    • Meals
      B/LP/-
    • Accomodation
      hotel/private
    • Transfers
      4.5 h
    • Location
      Tirane
  • 11

    Farewell Albania!

    Time permitting, Tirana invites you to explore its streets and sights on a stroll. Sip an espresso in one of the charming bars, observe the busy morning flow and select special treats as edible souvenirs at the lively “New Bazaar”. Interested to learn more about the communist past? “Bunkart 2” and “The House of Leaves” provide insights and are only a 5 min walk away from Tirana’s main "Skanderbeg Square". Your multi-faceted journey in Albania ends with a 30 min transfer to the airport. Thank you for joining our adventure, we hope to see you again in the country of warm hospitality, countless mountains and sun-kissed beaches.

    Not ready to leave yet? Ask us what more to do in the mountains, exploring the cultural highlights of Albania’s historic cities or a laid-back beach extension - there’s always more to explore in the Balkans!

    Departure transfer
    • Return of materials
    • 30 min transfer from the city center to the airport.
    • Meals
      B/-/-
    • Accomodation
      -
    • Transfers
      30 min
    • Location
      TIA

Good to know

Activity

An extended trekking with nine continous walking days, mostly in the 6-8 h range. Trails are waymarked but not maintained, orientation requires previous experience navigating by GPS. Limited phone signal means we cannot provide remote support and you may need to be self-sufficent.

Accommodation

Framed by a comfortable first and last hotel overnight in the cities, there's a mix of welcoming guesthouses and huts, including the rustic stay on Doberdol alp. Rooms will be private, but not always ensuite. Zbulo books double and twin rooms, but the huts hosts can fail to manage bookings and may accommodate your party in a quad room instead.

Weather

Summer sees stable mountain weather with daytime temperatures of 20-27°C. While nights at high altitude can dip into the single digits, they don't slip into minus degrees - take a light sleeping bag or liner if you worry about feeling cold. Occasional (torrential) thunderstorms last 30-45 min, whereas multiple days of continuous rainfall are rare - less than 10% of annual precipitation fall in summer.
There may be a few snow fields as late as mid-June. In July and August, prepare for heat in Shkodra and Tirana. Traveling prior to June or later as mid-September, make sure to pack sufficient warm cloth and a three season sleeping bag. From late September, rain and fog become more likely, daylight hours shorten and nighttime temperatures drop.

Included
  • Documentation for a self-guided trip
  • Accommodation: 3 hotel(s), 5 guesthouse(s), 2 hut(s)
  • Meals: All breakfasts, 10 lunch(es) and 8 dinner(s)
  • Transfers: As per itinerary, incl one airport transfer on arrival/departure
  • Luggage transport: 1/pers max 15 kg, duffels/rucksacks, no suit/flightcases * Zbulo is not liable for damages to luggage, please take out insurance
  • Other: trekking and border crossing permits
Excluded

• Meals not mentioned above
• Single room supplements, where private rooms are available
• Transfers required to skip a walk and excess luggage
• Personal expenses such as tips and souvenirs
• Flights - all Zbulo trips are ground-service only
• Overseas travel insurance*, required to ensure the best possible care
* Most European travel insurance policies already include this coverage

trip reviews

frequently asked questions

Meal preferences, diet and allergies

Many dishes are vegetarian by default and meat in most cases served as a side dish separately. For vegan, lactose and gluten-free diet, as well as more details on what to expect in general, please read on here. For more information on dieterary preferences and allergies please visit this link.

Devices

On each self-guided tour, we hand out a GPS Unit containing all GPS tracks of the trip and a simple mobile phone with a local SIM card, so guests can contact us in case problems arise. Both are already included, no extra fee or deposit is required. However, we do charge a fee in case of loss or damage, to cover part of the replacement cost. The fee is to be paid in cash to our drivers on-site.

Fees in case of loss or damage:
- GPS Unit: €150
- Mobile Phone: €30

Luggage transport

You only carry a light daypack with the items needed during the day. Your luggage is transported by vehicle and car from one accommodation.
- Luggage is transported and you have access to it every day.
- This is limited to 15 kg per piece and person.
- Please take only soft pieces like duffel bags or rucksacks.
- Avoid plastic suitcases or metal flight cases. Items with hard shell are at the risk of being damaged and can be difficult (extra cost) or impossible (no luggage transport) to handle.
- A large sturdy trash bag comes in handy to protect items from abrasion or getting wet. While the luggage will be covered in plastic tarps, in case of rain, this is no ultimate protection. A waterproof duffel is the best possible option.
- A daypack in the 20-35 liter range is recommended for the hikes. There needs to be sufficient space to store warm layer, rain/wind/sun protection, water, lunch and personal items.
- Additional luggage may be stored at the initial/final hotel and recollect at the end of the trip - for example if you're booked in Shkodra or Tirana prior to the trip.

Official route

Zbulo tours don't always follow the official Peaks of the Balkans route the way it is described on maps and guidebooks. The original route was designed for independent hikers walking point-to-point. To show you the best of the trail, we decided to include transfers that skip dirt and asphalt roads as well as replace lesser sections with highlights off route, for example the Grbaja Valley. Some of our adaptations have been taken up by the general public and our now the quasi default, for example the crossing from Valbona to Cerem via the Persllopit and Bor Pass. The Zbulo team helped develop the route in 2012 and started running the first guided group tours ever on it in 2014 - you're in good hands. :)

Late arrival

There's an early departure from Shkodra on day two, the transfer leaves the hotel at 6:15 am. If you're looking to get a good nights sleep, you may add a pre-trip overnight in the city or at an airport hotel and transfer to Shkodra on the follwoing day.

Interested? Request a private tour

You may also like

PoB 9-day dual program from Tirana
Alternate Route
5
days
Easy
Guided

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Donec at ornare nisl. Aenean ac tristique enim, vitae scelerisque tortor. Nulla in porta velit. Maecenas eget quam nisl.

PoB 9-day dual program from Tirana
Alternate Route
5
days
Easy
Guided

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Donec at ornare nisl. Aenean ac tristique enim, vitae scelerisque tortor. Nulla in porta velit. Maecenas eget quam nisl.