8-Day Self-Guided High Scardus Trail

Starting from Kukes, a 45 min transfer takes you through the mighty Vanave Gorge up a winding road into the Gora (highlands). When nation-states formed at the turn of the 20th century, the formerly nomadic, Slavic-speaking Gorani community spread across the border triangle. Starting near Shishtavec, a gradual ascent leads you to the rocky outcrop of Mt. Kallabak (2.174 m). It’s the very first peak of the Sharr Massif from where one can spot "The Pope's Hat", the peak where the borders of three countries meet. Onward, you walk through seemingly endless meadows along a panoramic ridgeline, crisscrossing the border between Albania and Kosovo. A glimpse of Mt. Korab (2.764 m) creates pleasant anticipation of this highlight ahead. Descending into a deep-cut alpine valley, you reach the remote village Caje, possibly the highest year-round inhabited settlement of Albania. Don't miss out on the "club”, the nucleus of every Albanian village, for a chit-chat with the elders and a glass of strong raki (local firewater). You just completed the first stage of the High Scardus Trail.

Wishing farewell to your host, you leave the simple homestay to start the second, longer hike to the larger village of Radomire. Fairytale-like beauty awaits when the alpine meadows are covered by colorful flower carpets. With a bit of luck, you will spot the endemic Albanian Lily or herds of semi-wild horses peacefully grazing the grounds. Traversing a high ridgeline with minor ups and downs, the rocky peaks of Korab dominate the horizon. Every step takes you closer to the heart of the Korab-Koritnik Nature Park, whose outstanding biodiversity and pristine nature are part of the Balkan Green Belt. New vistas open descending into the Field of Korab, a hyperkarstic depression, guarded by Albania's infamous two-man bunkers that pop up in the border mountains like concrete mushrooms. Our destination, Radomire, is a lively village that shelters visitors aspiring to the heights of Korab. Make yourself comfortable in the simple pension, you're staying for the upcoming two nights. Time to put the tired feet up and enjoy the panorama.

Today you rise early and prepare for the literal highpoint of this trip: Mt. Korab is at 2.764 m the highest peak of both Albania and North Macedonia. It's a long and demanding day with much elevation difference but free of technical difficulty. The path sees shepherd huts and mixed terrain, rocky stretches and soft alpine meadows. Reaching the saddle at the border with Macedonia, the path circles the peak and approaches it from the backside, offering another perspective of the rocky giant. Enjoy your picnic and the breathtaking, wide-ranging views from this rooftop across both Albania and Macedonia. On your descent, you may take a slightly different route back to Radomire. The ascent of Korab is optional, you may complete a shorter circuit or only part of the summit return hike - alternatively, you spend the day at leisure around the village. Guests may opt to spend the evening at the "Oda", a room traditionally reserved for guests, or else the "VIP area" of every tower-house in the highlands. Tomorrow's overnight will be a lot different.

Time to leave your base for the last two nights and head back into the highlands! The walk follows an old military patrol route along the border, where you spot the “brezi i bute”, a stretch of sand created to detect footsteps. The peaceful surroundings one can enjoy carefree today hold a gloomy past: During communism, they were under strict surveillance, and trespassers, if not fatally punished on the spot, would be sent with their families to forced labor camps. From today's high point, you overlook the wide plain of the glacial-shaped valley and flocks of thousands of sheep roaming free. Passing by the lake you can dip your feet into the refreshing cold. Tonight, the shepherds of the Kaloshi "clan" welcome you into their modest wooden huts on the "Ladies Pasture" at 1.770 m altitude. There’s no phone signal, electricity and we're still working on a shower, but hope that the warm hospitality and unique insights into their daily work and life make up for that. It's also your best chance to try milking a sheep! Don't miss out on the endless night sky and enjoy a big bonfire before falling asleep.

Parting from the shepherds and their secluded alpine world, separated by time and high mountains, you may admire their happiness but understand the hardship of their modest lifestyle better. Grounded by the experience, you ascend on a mule path towards the Grama Pass (2.300 m) to face sweeping 360° vistas of the surrounding peaks. Looking behind, views of Korab and Grama Lake leave you appreciating the long way you have come and provide strength for the long descent. After zig-zagging down the old border patrol path, a peek back up from some distance makes it hard to believe that you just descended the immense, rocky wall. Circling at ease along the rim of the valley and above the cluster of villages far below, you soak in the panorama. Closing in through the mountain pastures of Rabdisht, you gain a bird's eye view of the village, with scattered red-tiled roofs and smoke from the chimneys - a signal of your return to civilization. Once down the cobbled alleys, you reach the lovely guesthouse and join the hosts for a firewater/homemade juice toast in their idyllic apple-tree garden.

Today's hike through the picturesque villages of Dibra smooths the transition from the simplicity and rawness of the alpine heights to the fast-paced complicated life of the city. The trail crosses hills and pastures, connecting the villages you saw from above yesterday. The lack of road access has seen the once prosperous area forgotten. Locals live off their harvest and, faced with lacking opportunities, the youth leaves en masse. Visiting Zagrad, Cerjan and Bellove, you take a closer look at traditional stone houses, meet locals, and are surely invited in for a coffee. In the early afternoon, a transfer takes you from Bellove via Peshkopi to Tirana. You arrive for dinner in the modern capital's turmoil, a stark contrast to the previous days of the trek. Tirana showcases the other and very different contemporary side of the country. On an evening stroll along the main boulevard, you discover the origins and influences that shaped the city. Choose a fine restaurant for your last dinner, Tirana is filled with them.

Time permitting, Tirana invites you to explore its streets and sights on a stroll. Sip an espresso in one of the charming bars, observe the busy morning flow and select special treats as edible souvenirs at the lively “New Bazaar”. Interested to learn more about the communist past? “Bunkart 2” and “The House of Leaves” provide insights and are only a 5 min walk away from Tirana’s main "Skanderbeg Square". Your multi-faceted journey in Albania ends with a 30 min transfer to the airport. Thank you for joining our adventure, we hope to see you again in the country of warm hospitality, countless mountains and sun-kissed beaches.

Not ready to leave yet? Ask us what more to do in the mountains, exploring the cultural highlights of Albania’s historic cities or a laid-back beach extension - there’s always more to explore in the Balkans!