8-day self-guided Hidden Valley trek

The five-day trek begins at the edge of the Zagoria River Valley, a pristine tributary within Europe’s first Wild River National Park. Shielded by four mountain ranges, the valley forms a secluded landscape reached along an ancient caravan route lined with Ottoman bridges and Orthodox churches.

Climb through open woodland to a pass where the valley unfolds below, then descend through terraced fields to the tiny hamlet of Kala, home to only three residents. An Ottoman stone bridge beside the stream provides a possible swimming stop.

Follow the cobbled caravan route towards Limar, with views of Mount Strakavec (1,958 m) and the village’s distinctive stone houses. The night is spent in a local home, where dinner is prepared with regional produce and your hosts share stories of life in the valley. Follow the route notes carefully on the lesser-used sections between the settlements.

Follow footpaths above the Zagoria River through Leskaj and Doshnica towards Hoshteve. The villages retain livelihoods connected to livestock, beekeeping and the collection of herbs, while the route alternates between cultivated land, woodland and open views of the valley.

At Doshnica Waterfall, the pool above the falls provides a possible place to cool your feet. Depending on the water level, continue beside the stream or return through the village before the final ascent.

In Hoshteve, visit the Church of the Holy Apostles, known for its frescoes and carved woodwork. The night is spent with a local family who returned after years abroad to establish a guesthouse.

A shorter stage crosses the hamlets of Vithuq and Koncka on the way to Nivan and Sheper, with views towards Mount Cajupi (2,145 m). The improving but still unmade roads show how access between the villages is changing.

Nivan contains remains of military installations and a memorial to British mountaineer and sailor Bill Tilman, who fought with the valley’s resistance against German occupation during the Second World War. Continue through oak forest to the river, passing a monastery and an optional detour to another of Ali Pasha’s stone bridges.

In Sheper, many formerly nomadic Aromanian shepherds were forcibly settled after the border with neighbouring Greece closed in the late 1940s. The ruined museum and faded quotations from Marx and Lenin remain visible reminders of Albania’s communist past. Accommodation is at a family-run guesthouse.

The final mountain crossing leaves the Zagoria Valley over the Dhembel–Nemercka range. As the road journey around the mountains is almost as long as the walk, the route remains useful to local people and luggage is transported separately.

Enver Hoxha-era bunkers still guard the entrance to the narrow cleft that climbs towards the treeless alpine valley. Shepherds have crossed these mountains for centuries, travelling from as far as Albania’s southernmost regions to reach the fertile summer pastures, a journey that can take two weeks with their flocks.

Dhembel Pass (1,450 m) provides views towards Greece and down to Përmet and the Vjosa Valley. The long, rocky descent requires care and continues through Leuse, where a frescoed church stands above the town. A short final walk leads to the hotel in central Përmet.

A short transfer alongside the turquoise waters of the Vjosa takes you into the countryside. From here, you ascend through wild macchia to almost abandoned villages, with sweeping views towards dramatic Mt. Nemërçka. The north face of Southern Albania's second-highest peak (2,485 m) drops steeply for around 650 m towards the Vjosa Valley.

After crossing the highest point of the hike, you visit a local family in the village of Ogdunan before descending towards the Langarica Canyon. Your walk ends at an old Ottoman bridge near the Benja thermal springs, the perfect place to relax after several days of trekking. Soak in the warm, sulfur-rich waters or continue on foot into the scenic river canyon.

After your swim, a scenic 90-minute transfer follows the Vjosa Valley to Gjirokaster. You stay in a traditional Ottoman mansion in the old town and can begin discovering the charm of the "City of Stone." Wander through its historic streets or simply relax. Tomorrow brings more time to explore this remarkable city.

Explore Gjirokaster's steep cobbled streets, Ottoman-era houses and hilltop castle overlooking the Drino Valley. The old town is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List and reflects several layers of the city's long history.

You can head beyond the castle into the upper neighbourhoods and continue to an Ottoman bridge on the outskirts, or spend the morning exploring the old town at a slower pace and visiting one of its museums.

After lunch, a shared shuttle transfer takes you to Tirana, around four hours away. In the evening, take a final walk through the city centre and the lively Blloku district to round off your last full day.

Depending on your departure time, there may be an opportunity for a final walk through central Tirana or a museum visit. The journey ends with the planned transfer to Tirana Airport.