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Europe’s last wild river, the Vjosa, winds through southern Albania. One of its tributaries, the Zagoria River, has formed a mountain-framed valley within Europe’s first Wild River National Park.
Europe’s last wild river, the Vjosa, winds through southern Albania. One of its tributaries, the Zagoria River, has formed a mountain-framed valley within Europe’s first Wild River National Park. This guided journey follows ancient caravan routes and village paths between Peshtan, Limar, Hoshteve and Sheper.
Cross Ottoman stone bridges, visit Orthodox churches and see medieval frescoes while your guide brings the valley’s twentieth-century history and changing village life into focus. Stays in family-run guesthouses include home-cooked meals, while the route also reaches Dhembel Pass, Përmet and the warm pools at Benja, traditionally believed to have healing properties.
The journey ends in Gjirokastër, where Ottoman-era houses, cobbled streets and the hilltop castle provide a contrasting final stage before the return to Tirana. The walking combines moderate village routes with one longer mountain crossing.
Arrival – Peshtan
The group transfer leaves Tirana in the afternoon and collects arriving guests at Tirana Airport before continuing into southern Albania. The journey takes around 3 hr 30 min and follows the Vjosa River towards Tepelena.
Near the trailhead, the group stays at a family-run guesthouse in Peshtan. Meet your guide and fellow travellers, receive a briefing on the walking programme and have dinner at the accommodation.
Alternative arrival arrangements from Durrës, Corfu or Saranda may be possible when agreed in advance.
Group transfer from Tirana to Peshtan:
Peshtan – Kala – Limar
The five-day trek begins at the edge of the Zagoria River Valley, a pristine tributary within Europe’s first Wild River National Park. Shielded by four mountain ranges, the valley forms a secluded landscape entered along an ancient caravan route lined with Ottoman bridges and Orthodox churches.
Climb through open woodland to a pass where the valley unfolds below, then descend through terraced fields to the tiny hamlet of Kala, home to only three residents. An Ottoman stone bridge beside the stream provides a possible swimming stop.
Follow the cobbled caravan route towards Limar, with views of Mount Strakavec (1,958 m) and the village’s distinctive stone houses. Your guide provides context on the valley’s history before the group spends the night in a local home, where dinner is prepared with regional produce.
Limar – Doshnice – Hoshteve
Follow footpaths above the Zagoria River through Leskaj and Doshnica towards Hoshteve. The villages retain livelihoods connected to livestock, beekeeping and the collection of herbs, while the route alternates between cultivated land, woodland and open valley views.
At Doshnica Waterfall, the pool above the falls provides a possible place to cool your feet. Depending on the water level, your guide chooses whether to continue beside the stream or return through the village before the final ascent.
In Hoshteve, visit the Church of the Holy Apostles, known for its frescoes and carved woodwork. The night is spent with a local family who returned after years abroad to establish a guesthouse.
Hoshteve – Nivan – Sheper
A shorter stage crosses the hamlets of Vithuq and Koncka on the way to Nivan and Sheper, with views towards Mount Cajupi (2,145 m). The improving but still unmade roads show how access between the villages is changing.
Nivan contains remains of military installations and a memorial to British mountaineer and sailor Bill Tilman, who fought with the valley’s resistance against German occupation during the Second World War. Continue through oak forest to the river, passing a monastery and an optional detour to another of Ali Pasha’s stone bridges.
In Sheper, many formerly nomadic Aromanian shepherds were forcibly settled after the border with neighbouring Greece closed in the late 1940s. The ruined museum and faded quotations from Marx and Lenin remain visible reminders of Albania’s communist past. The group stays at a family-run guesthouse.
Sheper – Dhembel Pass – Permet
The final and most demanding mountain crossing leaves the Zagoria Valley over the Dhembel–Nemercka range. As the road journey around the mountains is almost as long as the walk, luggage is transported by horse and the route remains vital to local people.
Enver Hoxha-era bunkers still guard the entrance to the narrow cleft that climbs towards the treeless alpine valley. Shepherds have crossed these mountains for centuries, travelling from as far as Albania’s southernmost regions to reach the fertile summer pastures, a journey that can take two weeks with their flocks.
Dhembel Pass (1,450 m) provides views towards Greece and down to Përmet and the Vjosa Valley. The long, rocky descent requires care and leads into the old quarter of Përmet, where the group stays in a centrally located hotel.
Permet – Benja – Gjirokaster
A short transfer follows the turquoise Vjosa into the countryside. Walk through maquis and upland villages with views towards Mount Nemercka before descending to Lengarica Canyon.
The route ends near an Ottoman stone bridge and the warm thermal pools of Benja, traditionally believed to have healing properties. You can soak in the sulphur-rich water or explore part of the river canyon on foot, depending on water conditions.
Continue by road to Gjirokastër, around 1 hr 30 min away. The group stays in a traditional house in the old town, with time for an initial walk through the City of Stone.
Gjirokaster – Tirane
Explore Gjirokastër’s steep cobbled streets, Ottoman-era houses and castle above the Drino Valley. The old town is inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List and reflects several periods of the city’s history.
Join your guide for a walk through the upper neighbourhoods and a visit to the castle, or use part of the day to explore independently. Lunch is not included and can be taken in the old town.
In the afternoon, the group transfers to Tirana, around four hours away. An evening walk through the centre and Blloku district completes the final full day.
Tirane – TIA
Depending on your departure time, there may be an opportunity for a final walk through central Tirana or a museum visit. The journey ends with the planned transfer to Tirana Airport.
The standard departure transfer is from your final booked hotel on the last tour day, or after an accommodation extension booked with Zbulo. The office confirms the final pickup time. Changes after confirmation depend on driver availability.
Airport transfer information
Three moderate walks of 4-6 h in the lower mountain ranges culminate in a fourth longer day crossing the Dhembel Pass. There are two optional shorter walks to the Sopot Waterfall and in Gjirokaster at the end.
Four simple, clean and welcoming homestays with shared rooms and limited facilities in the Zagoria Valley are followed by three centrally located hotel ensuite private rooms overnights in Permet, Gjirokaster and Tirana.
The Spring and autumn weather is mild. On altitudes from 400 to 1.450 meters the weather rarely harsh and the walks mostly inside the protected valley. The long season is interrupted by a summer too hot for most walkers. To beat the heat, you may start early and take a long lunch time siesta near the river.
• Meals not mentioned above and drinks other than table water
• Single room supplements, where private rooms are available
• Transfers required to skip a walk and excess luggage
• Personal expenses such as tips and souvenirs
• Flights - all Zbulo trips are ground-service only
• Overseas travel insurance*, required to ensure the best possible care
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Our tour guide was great. Let us know about the history of the region and country of Albania
View 5 photos
Fantastic trip in the hidden valleys, perfectly organized, stunning landscape and the possibility to be just so far away from everything. Would totally do it again!
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Everything was very well organised! The group was amazing and our guide gave us all important information. We had a great time! Although we had unexpected difficulties in Tirana our guide made the best out of it and we always felt safe.
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For both my husband and I, it was the guide, the landscape, the people we met along the way and the food. Being welcomed into people’s home and tasting the food and hearing about their lives is so enriching.
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Zbulo organized a fantastic experience. Without our delightful guide Blend, we would never have had the interaction with locals, learned so much about the history, personal stories and landscape we hiked through. The trip was extremely well thought out and organized, the communication with Zbulo excellent and responsive, the guides are clearly carefully selected and…
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We just spent a week hiking the interior of Albania with one of Zebulon’s excellent guides. I felt like we came away with a good sense of the history and spirit of Albania. The hikes were great but also stopping for cafe in local homes was always a highlight. A great week. I highly recommend!
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Second trip with Zbulo, and it was just as great as the first one. Our guide, Blend, was super fun, very knowledgeable, and highly protective of his flock. I don't believe we could have had a better trip.
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Our guide was professional and easy going. Plus he made the trip a lot of fun. The highlight was definitely sitting at the dining room tables of many of the locals, eating food prepared by them from their own gardens. A real treat. Scenery was spectacular and hikes were rigorous but well paced. Sleeping conditions…
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Zbulo - Easy to book a 7 day hike?. Lots of information on their website and good responses. Very, very helpful. Plus Best guide ever (no kidding). Super fun, knowledgeable about terrain and history. Gentle soul.
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Amazing opportunity to experience an undiscovered gem. The Albanian Alps are beautiful. The terrain is difficult but so worth the effort. Tour was very well organized and supported. My group included Belgians, Germans, Australians, and Swiss - fast friends! Our guides were local - knowledgeable and able. Willing to share their history, culture and customs.…
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I recently came back from a hiking trip organized by Zbulo!-Discover Albania. It was the hidden valley Zagorie tour and I loved every minute of it. The owners were very responsive from the first moment, I contacted them and everything worked out perfectly during the trip. Homestays were amazing, our guide was very friendly and…
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Loved the trip and highly recommend. The hikes through the Zagoria Valley were stunning. We weaved our way up and down the lush valley sides dotted with small farms passed goats and their shepherds. Stopping to eat and stay with families in their modest guest houses enjoying home made goats cheese, vegetables, salads, honey and…
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Loved my experience with Zbulo. Felt well informed and well looked after. The Zagoria Valley was unspoiled and exquisite. A tree lined Mediterranean valley with the turquoise Zagoria valley twisting along its base. We had very special experiences enjoying home cooked delicious food, staying with local families in their guest houses and seeing a way…
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Fantastic trip in a really untouched part of Albania. Great scenery, food and hospitality!
We have an article on how to travel overland to Albania and avoid the plane. If you arrive by ferry from Italy in Durres, we can fetch you there so as to avoid you having to travel back and forth to Tirana.
Many dishes are vegetarian by default and meat in most cases served as a side dish separately. For vegan, lactose and gluten-free diet, as well as more details on what to expect in general, please read on here. For more information on dieterary preferences and allergies please visit this link.
You only carry a light daypack with the items needed during the day. Your luggage is transported by vehicle and car from one accommodation.
See Arrival transfer on the first day of your itinerary and Departure transfer on the last day for the meeting points, times and included arrangements.
Our trip rates presume two travelers sharing a room. A single supplement indicates the surcharge to upgrade to a private room just for yourself. Note that this is only applicable to certain overnights as indicated. Homestays, guesthouses and huts generally offer dorm rooms and at hotels where capacities are limited, a private room upgrade may not be available. Please check with us if that leaves any questions.
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Follow the Zagoria Valley’s old caravan routes at your own pace, with local homestays along the way.
Walk the Albanian Riviera with a guide, with moderate hikes and private en-suite rooms in three-star hotels.