Limar – Doshnice – Hoshteve

Our route today follows foothpaths with views of towering mountains above and the Zagoria River winding below. The trail links the remote villages of Leskaj and Doshnica and Hoshteve. Passing through these hamlets gives us the opportunity to meet locals learn about the traditional ways of life sustained by animal husbandry, beekeeping, and medicinal herb gathering.

After a coffee break in the village, the basin on top of the Doshnica Waterfall invites us to a cooling dip of our feet. Depending on the water level, we may continue along the stream or backtrack into the village before the final ascent to Hoshteve awaits. Upon reaching the village, we visit the Church of the Holy Apostles, a beautifully preserved treasure of Orthodox heritage, Byzantine frescoe painting and intricate wood carving – one of the finest in rural Albania.

The modest livelihoods here once spured mass emigration to Greece. Katrina and Ladi, our hosts and members of the returning diaspora, spent 17 years abroad and have now come home to open a guesthouse. We’ll be warmly welcomed by Katrina and Ladi, who generously share their story and serve a delicious, home cooked meal with us.