Sheper – Dhembel Pass – Permet

The final and most demanding mountain crossing leaves the Zagoria Valley over the Dhembel–Nemercka range. As the road journey around the mountains is almost as long as the walk, luggage is transported by horse and the route remains vital to local people.

Enver Hoxha-era bunkers still guard the entrance to the narrow cleft that climbs towards the treeless alpine valley. Shepherds have crossed these mountains for centuries, travelling from as far as Albania’s southernmost regions to reach the fertile summer pastures, a journey that can take two weeks with their flocks.

Dhembel Pass (1,450 m) provides views towards Greece and down to Përmet and the Vjosa Valley. The long, rocky descent requires care and leads into the old quarter of Përmet, where the group stays in a centrally located hotel.